Links: English Cut
If you've ever wanted to learn about the art and science of bespoke Savile Row tailoring, you could probably do a lot worse than check out "English Cut," a blog written by Thomas Mahon. Thomas is a tailor who dishes out all sorts of commentary (and occasionally advice) about the rarefied world of fully custom men's suits. These are the kind of handmade garments that cost a small fortune but last a lifetime - kind of like buying a Ferrari that you can wear into a courtroom.
A tailored suit has a lot of man hours behind it, and Mahon's blog shows you exactly where your money goes. Instead of getting something off the rack and making alterations to it in order for it to fit your body, a new pattern is made from scratch, starting with the bare fabric. Often, multiple fittings are made, and the fine details (like lining up the stripes of the pocket of a herringbone suit with the main panel) also contribute to the feeling of comfortable, timeless luxury.
A lot of tailors are moving off the Row because of rising real estate prices. Obviously, tailoring a garment isn't location dependent, so it seems silly to waste money on a high-rent retail space. It's a bit sad, I suppose, that something so interesting can evaporate away because of the vagaries of the market. Then again, the continual repurposing of spaces in urban areas can be pretty neat in and of itself.